Oku-Iya

Oku-Iya

The Deep Iya Valley

Hidden Hamlets, Traditional Charm

Hidden Hamlets...
...Traditional Charm

If there ever was a place to 'get away from it all' in Japan, Oku-Iya might just be it. The deeper end of the Iya Valley has not only been historically known as a place to hide, but due to a lack of road access until the mid-20th century, this part of Iya had been literally cut off from the modern world until quite recently. Even today, the sinlge-laned roads that do link Oku-Iya to elsewhere prevent most tour buses from even entering the area due to insurance restrictions. Accordingly, many of the old-world traditions still earnestly exist here and this is not only reflected in the physical surroundings, but also in the spirit of the people.
At its core, Oku-Iya displays a still living testiment to the roots of Japan. The people continue to farm tiny terraced plots by hand, wild vegetables are still gathered from the mountainsides each spring, ancient shrine festivals maintain their ritual customs, and traditional thatched roof farmhouses continue to be lived in by multi-generation families. Ochiai Village has been nationally recognized as a special preservation district, allowing many of its historic houses to be restored and even possible for visitors to stay in. And out at the secluded Double Vine Bridges you'll feel you discovered a pair of hidden treasures, far removed from the throngs that beseige the lower valley's other more famous vine bridge.
Indeed, you'll find little in the way of mass tourism here, but the area does exceptionally well with hosting both independent visitors and small groups. Subsequently, some may feel the homey charm of Oku-Iya to be a bit slow, but those who do make it this far are not only rewarded with a reprieve from crowds and commercialism, but upon making a bit of effort, they also have a chance to interact with the welcoming locals, taste traditional flavors from the source, and witness a way of life that has nearly vanished elsewhere in Japan. And to truely get away from everything, try hiking one of the many mountains that surround the valley, where the rolling meadows on the summits are no doubt breathtaking.
But times are inevitably changing. The majority of the popuation is of the older generation and only they represent a vanishing reminder to a land once cut off from time. Like elsewhere, depopulation has been effecting the Iya Valley, but one way of tackling this is the mind-bending Scarecrow Village which now has a doll to human ratio of about 20 to 1. And though the ultimate fate of Deep Iya life may be that it simply returns to the earth someday, for now, and fadingly so, there still exists a final chance to experience that which once was.

Oku-Iya

Orientation

Located in the south-east of Miyoshi, this area includes the upper half of the Iya Valley, which almost evenly bisects it from the west to the east. 

The main road ("The Iya Highway") follows the river and valley in its entirety, entering as Rt 32 from Nishi-Iya, and then merging with Rt 439 at Tochinose. The whole area is ringed by high mountains, and a few drivable mountain passes head to the north and south. 

Dozens of small mountainside hamlets crawl up the hillsides throughout Oku-Iya. The sleepy "downtown" section of Kyojo has most of Oku-Iya's public facilities, and further along the hamlet of Ochiai is a special preservation district. The far off hamlet of Nagoro is also known as the "Scarecrow Village", while the secluded Double Vine Bridges are a bit further up the valley from there. 

Minokoshi is the final hamlet in the Iya Valley, and its cluster of shops and guesthouses serve the hikers who climb Mt. Tsurugi from here.
The Oku-Iya Double Vine Bridges 

Oku-Iya

Orientation

Located in the south-east of Miyoshi, this area includes the upper half of the Iya Valley, which almost evenly bisects it from the west to the east. 

The main road ("The Iya Highway") follows the river and valley in its entirety, entering as Rt 32 from Nishi-Iya, and then merging with Rt 439 at Tochinose. The whole area is ringed by high mountains, and a few drivable mountain passes head to the north and south. 

Dozens of small mountainside hamlets crawl up the hillsides throughout Oku-Iya. The sleepy "downtown" section of Kyojo has most of Oku-Iya's public facilities, and further along the hamlet of Ochiai is a special preservation district. The far off hamlet of Nagoro is also known as the "Scarecrow Village", while the secluded Double Vine Bridges are a bit further up the valley from there. 

Minokoshi is the final hamlet in the Iya Valley, and its cluster of shops and guesthouses serve the hikers who climb Mt. Tsurugi from here.

Oku-Iya

Orientation

Located in the south-east of Miyoshi, this area includes the upper half of the Iya Valley, which almost evenly bisects it from the west to the east. 

The main road ("The Iya Highway") follows the river and valley in its entirety, entering as Rt 32 from Nishi-Iya, and then merging with Rt 439 at Tochinose. The whole area is ringed by high mountains, and a few drivable mountain passes head to the north and south. 

Dozens of small mountainside hamlets crawl up the hillsides throughout Oku-Iya. The sleepy "downtown" section of Kyojo has most of Oku-Iya's public facilities, and further along the hamlet of Ochiai is a special preservation district. The far off hamlet of Nagoro is also known as the "Scarecrow Village", while the secluded Double Vine Bridges are a bit further up the valley from there. 

Minokoshi is the final hamlet in the Iya Valley, and its cluster of shops and guesthouses serve the hikers who climb Mt. Tsurugi from here.

A Brief History Of Iya

Old Iya Valley Farmhouse

The people of Iya are known as being tough and independent, and understandably so. For centuries the valley was cut off from the rest of Japan, mainly due to the steep inclines of the Iyakei Gorge at the valley entrance and the perilous Oboke & Koboke Gorges just outside it.


Unlike the rest of Japan, people here settled on the mountainsides, high above the valley floor (hardly anywhere else in the country do people live like this, opting to live on the flat valley floors instead). Accordingly, farmers grew soba, millet, and later potatoes since the lack of flat areas made rice cultivation nearly impossible.  Until fairly recently, tobacco was the main cash crop that could be exported from the valley, but the labor intensive production and curing methods barely allowed the farmers much of a profit.


Though it's believed people have been living in this isolated place since prehistoric times, it is said that in the 12th century, after their defeat in the Genpei War, some of the fleeing Heike Samurai settled in the valley among the existing residents in order to hide from their pursuing victors. Many stories and relics of their arrival still remain. 


While people have been crossing through the valley via mountain paths for centuries in order to go between north and south Shikoku Island, the first roads into the area weren't built until the early/mid 20th century. As time progressed, civil engineering projects including roads, dams, bridges, and tunnels not only began providing much needed jobs other than basic susistance farming, but also offered much welcomed access to this remote place. Finally allowing the residents better contact with the country, instead of needing to hike over high mountain passes to reach somewhere, it was only then, still within the living memories of the elderly citizens, that rice became a common part of the meal.

Oku-Iya:  A legendary place to hide

Oku-Iya: 
A legendary place to hide

Many things in Japan are ranked in lists and the Iya Valley certainly has its fair share. There's "Japan's Top 100 Mountains" (of which Oku-Iya's Mt. Tsurugi is one of them), there's the "100 Best Water Springs" (which includes the spring on Mt. Tsurugi that is the source for the Iya River), and there's also the country's "Three Amazing Bridges" (which of course includes the Kazurabashi Vine Bridge). But perhaps the list the Iya Valley is most noted for being on is as one of "Japan's Three Hidden Regions". And while there's no doubt that the absence of roads until fairly recently added to the allure of Iya being secret place, the deepest parts of the valley are also well steeped in legend for being a pace to hide.

Of course the stories of the fugitive Heike Samurai are probably the most well known, but it's said that Iya is also where the young Emporer of Japan fled to and later died, and it's also where the Emporer's Ruling Sword is supposedly buried. But to go down the rabbit hole further, some say Iya is also the place where a tribe of ancient Israelis hid the Lost Ark of the Covenent.
Find this hard to believe? Well, many have spent decades in pursuit of these legends, with suprising results. Decide for yourself by finding out more about Oku-Iya's folklore.
Nagaoka-ke Historic House in Ochiai 

Climate of Oku-Iya

Due to the higher elevation, weather patterns in the deep Iya Valley are slightly different than the rest of Shikoku. One difference would be the temperature, which can be a few degrees cooler here, particularly in the evenings, and on mountain tops it can be considerably colder at night. So, spring leaves appear a bit later in Oku-Iya and autumn leaves change color a week or two earlier (upper mountain leave begin changing in early October, and the rest of Oku-Iya will start in late October and into early November) Also, when the rest of Japan is melting in the thick summer humidity, Oku-Iya remains comfortable and enjoyable, with its pleasant breezes and fresh air.
Another difference is how the mountains can sometimes trap clouds, such that it may be clear in other parts of Shikoku or Miyoshi, but rainy in Iya (though this offers a great chance to observe kiryu, see below). So predicting the weather can be a bit of a challenge and forecasts may be unreliable. 

In winter, Oku-Iya gets the most snow of not just Miyoshi but for all of Shikoku. Some places close for the season. The main road is usually kept clear of snow but that is not always the case if there is a big storm. Ice can also be a problem, especially on small hamlet roads, and mountain passes may be impassable.
Current weather and forecast for Sugeoi Village (in the center of Oku-Iya, between Ochiai and Scarecrow Village).
Click on the green weather bar for complete forecast information (offsite). 
Ochiai Village OKU-IYA

Oku-Iya
Top Things to See & Do

  • Asa-ke Historic House
  • Scarecrow Village

    Scarecrow Village

    A local artist's way to handle depopulation

    Art & Weirdness

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  • Mt. Tsurugi

    Mt. Tsurugi

    Iya's highest mountain, packed with legend

    Hiking

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  • Oku-Iya
    Local Points and Access Map

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    Mt. Tenguzuka and Ushi-no-Se 

    Take a Hike
    Hit the Trails of Oku-Iya

    We at IyaTime love to get up high, and the mountains of Oku-Iya are reknowned for their excellent trails and some of the best hiking in western Japan. Most hikers make their way directly to the famed Mt. Tsurugi, which is kind of a shame, because even though it is very pretty, the other mountains and ridges of Oku-Iya are arugably more stunning and certainly offer more of a feeling of solitude. 

    Half-hour, half-day, full-day, and multi-day hikes offer majestic views and quiet trails, while various mountain huts (some free!) can provide lodging as well as a chance to see awesome sunrises and sunsets.  Find out more on our Hiking Page.
    Hiking Portal Page

    Unkai and Kiryu
    Valley Fog Formations

    Known as the "Sea of Clouds", unkai is a rare natural phenomenon that occurs when fog settles into the bottom of a valley and the surrounding mountains peek out like islands. Spring and autumn are usually the most reliable time to see unkai, as the changing seasons provide the necessary conditions of humidity and temperature differences, however it has also been known to happen in Iya in summer and even winter.

    To see this glorious sight you need to do two (somewhat challenging) things: get up high, and get up early (the Iya wake-n-bake?). Obviously, since seeing unkai from above is important, (instead of from within the fog below) its necessary to be at a higher elevation, at least 100 to 200m in elevation above the valley floor (the mountains, passes, and the upper part of some villages including Ochiai would be where to go). Also, the fog settles in this way during the night, so from first light to about an hour or so after sunrise would be when it's visible before fading away. Aside from it never looking the same, do note that unkai forming is far from guarenteed (maybe a 20% or less chance of happening) which is also why its so special. The Oboke area above the Yoshino River is also a common place for unkai (see here for Oboke unkai info).
    Another unique misty mountain phenomenon of Iya is known as kiryu. Usually happening either in the early morning as well as during/after some rain at any time of day and at any time of year, this is when plumes of fog shoot up from the valley floor and lower elevations, drifting higher as they swirl across the mountain sides. 

    Though much more common than unkai, seeing kiryu does require gaining a bit of altitude (though not all that much) and is best enjoyed with a broad field of vision. From mid to upper levels of most villages it is usually possible to see, though it may not be visible from mountain tops (on rainy days, the peaks are usually shrouded in clouds). But with its ever changing spectacle that's reminicient of ancient Chinese ink paintings, watching the kiryu silently dance across the valley makes any rainy day enjoyable.

    IyaTime's

    Insider Tips

    Traditional Thatched Roof Farmhouse

    IyaTime's Insider Tips

    Want to see some great views but aren't much of a hiker? Mt. Tsurugi has a chair-lift which can bring you much of the way up the mountain, and from the upper lift station the view is certainly impressive. Also, if you have a car, Ochiai Pass is pretty spectacular as it is above the tree line and its meadows of sasa grass wafting in the breeze are sublime. 

    There are also great views from upper Ochiai Village as well as from the Ochiai Village Viewpoint (located across the valley from Ochiai and looking back at the Village). And you can get the same valley commanding views of the ancient Heike Samurai up at their mountain-side Bukeyashiki Kita-ke historic house.
    Of the comparably few people who do venture into Oku-Iya, the majority only ride along the main road at the bottom of the valley, seeing the main sights from there. This is unfortunate since traditional life in the mountainside hamlets isn't really experienced that way, and the constructions along the main road are relatively new. Going for a walk/hike through any village offers a window to the local lifestyle, and making arrangements to stay in a hamlet guesthouse or farmhouse is even better. Though please note: the hamlets are not zoos nor are the villagers actors in some kind of re-enactment. When photographing please show respect for privacy, stay on roads and clear paths, and do not wander through someone's property without permission. 
  • Mt. Tsurugi chairlift

    City skyline

    Photo By: John Doe

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  • Its hard not to find soba noodles on the menu in Iya, but what's even better is learning to make them the traditional way yourself. Among the opportunities to do so, local legend Ms. Tsuzuki is synonymous with the valley's most famous creation, and with her you'll grind the buckwheat in a stone mill, kneed out the dough and cut noodles by hand, then afterwards feast on your creation along with a bounty of various other Iya flavors in a meal that just can't be beat. 
    The active and inquisitive should be sure to check out Yama Yoga. Weekly drop-in classes, mainly for locals, are held each Sunday morning at Ryugugake Cottages (as well as an additional dance fitness class every other Sunday), and the English speaking teacher will help break the ice with the other students. For a more absorbing workout, reserve one of the yoga experience lessons that can be held in a traditional farmhouse, next to a picturesque village shrine, or even up on a mountain. After your lesson, you can also choose to have the teacher give you an insider's tour of places in Oku-Iya. 
  • Yoga at Ochiai Village

    City skyline

    Photo By: John Doe

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  • If riding up through Oku-Iya via public bus, try to get a seat on the right hand side of the bus (if entering from Nishi-Iya and/or if ever moving up through the valley). The road is almost entirely on the left side of the river, giving the right side of vehicles the best view (and if heading down and/or out of the valley towards Oboke, sit on the left side instead).
    A great way to fully enjoy the Double Vine Bridges on a nice weather day is to bring along a picnic and eat down by the tranquil waterside between the two spans. Paths lead to the river bank, or if you prefer, you can sit at one of the picnic tables at their campground. Bento lunch boxes can be reserved at Tsuzuki's Atelier and Oku-Iya Hotel.
    If going out to the Scarecrow Village be sure to also go inside the old kindergarden building, where you can sit down among dozens of dolls. There is no staff, but the door is usually unlocked and its OK to just go in and sit amonst the scarecrows gathered there. Also, go over the bridge here to go inside the old school to see the scarecrow kids diligently at class.
    New Spring Leaves in Oku-Iya

    Oku-Iya
    Main Events

  • Oku-Iya Summer Festival

    Mid-August

    Middle School Grounds

    Shimose Village

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  • Kakashi (Scarecrow) Festival in Nagoro
  • Yukigassen Snowball Tournament of Oku-Iya

  • The "Iya Highway"

     Iyaguchi to Mt. Tsurugi

    59

    Kilometers

     826

    Curves

    1

    Stop Sign
    The original road into the Iya Valley spans the length of Oku-Iya. Entering from Nishi-Iya, the narrow "Iya Highway" follows the river and heads all the way to farthest and highest end of the valley at Minokoshi. Being the main access road in Oku-Iya, a few tunnels have been built in recent years and some spots have been widened, but the majority of the road remains curvy and one-laned. However its usually a pretty easy drive since there's very little traffic and the only distractions are the awesome views. 
    Other Areas

    Oku-Iya
    Local Points and Access Map

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