Ikeda & North

Ikeda & North

The Crossroads of Shikoku

A Historic Gateway and Trading Hub

With its central Shikoku location on the banks of the Yoshino River after it emerges from the gorges of Oboke and Koboke, the town of Ikeda has been a center for commerce, culture, and activty for centuries. From here the Yoshino River Valley begins to expand in width as it heads eastward towards Tokushima City on the coast.  Being that the rapids of the gorges prevented vessels from passing, in the past farmers from the neighboring valleys brought their harvests (particularly tobacco) into Ikeda for trading and to send it down the river to the city and beyond, and accordingly, Ikeda grew in wealth and importance.  


Though trading boats no longer ply the river nor is tobacco grown in the hills, Ikeda has remained a noted transit point as it is home to the junction of the JR Dosan and JR Tokushima train lines. The Tokushima Expressway also passes through here before splitting into the Kochi Expressway and Matsuyama Expressway, and the Awa-Ikeda Bus Terminal links Ikeda to not only to Oboke and Iya, but also to Kobe and Osaka.  

While most visitors simply pass through Ikeda as a launching point for the splendor of the Iya Valley and the Oboke & Koboke Gorges, Ikeda does have a few of its own highlights despite its shuttered and often lifeless streets. The main downtown section of Miyoshi City radiates out from JR Awa-Ikeda Station, where one can find shops, several of which are still selling bric-a-brack leftover from the Showa Era (maybe some decent retro finds can be had?), as well as some restaurants, lots of dinky bars (be careful with their often ambiguous pricing) and most of the area's main services. Several historic "udatsu" buildings are scattered throughout here, harking back to an earlier more prosperous time when Ikeda grew in importance from the tobacco trade.


The surrouding mountains are also home to a collection of natural and cultural sights. The mountain-top Unpen-ji Temple is number 66 of the Shikoku 88 Temple circut and at 910m, it is also the highest of the group. The impressive Hashikura-ji Temple also sits atop a mountain and is reached by a breathtaking cable car.  There are also a variety of lovely parks in the area, including the tranquil Kurozo Marshlands and its bounty of botanical wildlife.

But one thing Ikeda is also know for is having a good time (hence the large number of bars). Even though on a typical day the town may seem like a mundane little borough, several events occur here annually, with the biggest being the Awa-Odori Dance Festival. At this time, the otherwise sedate streets come alive for several nights each August with troupes of dancers, drummers, and plenty of vendors. Ikeda is also home to a couple sake breweries (of course!) and each winter the town hosts the Shikoku Sake Festival where brewers and patrons alike come from across the region to celebrate Japan's signature spirit.
Kurozo Marshland

Ikeda & North

Orientation

Though Ikeda Town is the most populous section and administrative seat for Miyoshi City, this area also includes the town of Ikawa in the south-east and Miyoshi's small exclave town of Mino to the north-east. The town of Higashi-Miyoshi stretches between Mino and Ikeda (some info for Higashi-Miyoshi is given here as well).

The Yoshino River flows north from Oboke & Koboke into the center of Ikeda, then curves eastward as it continues towards the coast. The JR Dosan Train Line traverses from the north (from Takamatsu Citry) to the south (through Oboke & Koboke to Kochi City) and the JR Tokushima Train Line goes from the town center to the east (to Tokushima City). The Tokushima Expressway bisects the area from east to west.

The central business district is in the center of the area, where all the train, expressway, and river points converge. Most shops, places to stay, restaurants, and public services can be found in the cluster of streets that extend from JR Awa-Ikeda Station and the Awa-Ikeda Bus Terminal.

Central Ikeda is surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains, where several parks, temples, some small rural hamlets, and a few places to stay are also located.

Ikeda & North

Orientation

Though Ikeda Town is the most populous section and administrative seat for Miyoshi City, this area also includes the town of Ikawa in the south-east and Miyoshi's small exclave town of Mino to the north-east. The town of Higashi-Miyoshi stretches between Mino and Ikeda (some info for Higashi-Miyoshi is given here as well).

The Yoshino River flows north from Oboke & Koboke into the center of Ikeda, then curves eastward as it continues towards the coast. The JR Dosan Train Line traverses from the north (from Takamatsu Citry) to the south (through Oboke & Koboke to Kochi City) and the JR Tokushima Train Line goes from the town center to the east (to Tokushima City). The Tokushima Expressway bisects the area from east to west.

The central business district is in the center of the area, where all the train, expressway, and river points converge. Most shops, places to stay, restaurants, and public services can be found in the cluster of streets that extend from JR Awa-Ikeda Station and the Awa-Ikeda Bus Terminal.

Central Ikeda is surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains, where several parks, temples, some small rural hamlets, and a few places to stay are also located.

Ikeda & North

Orientation

Though Ikeda Town is the most populous section and administrative seat for Miyoshi City, this area also includes the town of Ikawa in the south-east and Miyoshi's small exclave town of Mino to the north-east. The town of Higashi-Miyoshi stretches between Mino and Ikeda (some information for Higashi-Miyoshi is given here as well).

The Yoshino River flows north from Oboke & Koboke into the center of Ikeda, then curves eastward as it continues towards the coast. The JR Dosan Train Line traverses from the north (from Takamatsu Citry) to the south (through Oboke & Koboke to Kochi City) and the JR Tokushima Train Line goes from the town center to the east (to Tokushima City). The Tokushima Expressway bisects the area from east to west.

The central business district is in the center of the area, where all the train, expressway, and river points converge. Most shops, places to stay, restaurants, and public services can be found in the cluster of streets that extend from JR Awa-Ikeda Station and the Awa-Ikeda Bus Terminal.

Central Ikeda is surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains, where several parks, temples, some small rural hamlets, and a few places to stay are also located.

 Climate of Ikeda & North

For the most part, Ikeda's climate is similar to that of coastal Shikoku: cold but not freezingly so in the winter, while hot and muggy for most of the summer. 

Like the rest of this part of Japan, spring arrives in late March, and Ikeda has a plethora of cherry blossoms that bloom at this time. The spring becomes increasingly warm through April and May, but by mid-June the rainy season begins and with it the humidity rises. By mid/late June the days begin to become oppressively sultry, which makes an escape to a mountain top temple or simply into the Frespo Supermarket worth the effort (better still, head to the mountains of Iya)

The leaves begin to change around the temples on the upper mountains in late October, but most of the town will see the autumn colors in abundance on the surrounding hills in mid-November. Snow is not so common in winter as the temperature usually stays just above freezing, but now and then there may be some occasional snowfall if it gets particularly cold. 
Current weather and forecast for Central Ikeda (Ikeda-cho, Machi).
Click the red weather bar below for complete forecast information (offsite).
Central Ikeda IKEDA & NORTH

A Brief History Of Ikeda

Ikeda baseball

Due to its geographic location in Shikoku, Ikeda has been a transit and trading hub for centuries. In ancient times, the revered monk Kobodaishi is said to have spent considerable time here while establishing what is now known as the 88 Temple Pilgramage Route of Shikoku, which includes Ikeda's Unpenji Temple. In the 14th century, the Miyoshi Clan of Samurai settled in the area (hence the name of the city), where they held dominion over much of what is now known as Tokushima Prefecture.


Due to the difficulty in traversing the Yoshino River through the Oboke and Koboke Gorges, Ikeda was the point from which goods to and from the area were traded via boats out towards the coast. Merchants of the area became quite wealthy, particularly from the tobacco trade, which was grown in abundance as a cash crop by the farmers in the surrounding valleys. In the early years of the 20th century Ikeda established itself as a train line hub for the Dosan and Tokushima Lines, further increasing its importance as a center for commerce.


With its wealth and conections, Ikeda was a relative metropolis compared to the remote mountain areas like Iya and Oboke, so to here many of the populations not only came to shop and trade (and, umm, drink...) but also for business and education opportunities. Though the atmosphere is more subdued and desolate nowadays, most people in the town have relatives who originally hail from the outer areas of Iya and Oboke. But as it went, with the hearty people from the steep hillside hamlets flocking here to go to school, during the 1970s and 1980s the Ikeda High School baseball team was a powerhouse on the field, famously winning several National Championships. So dominant was the team and despite not winning any national title in decades, that if one were to now ask just about anyone in Japan over the age of 40 if they've ever heard of this small Shikoku outpost, they'd almost certainly say "Yakyu" (baseball).
Still curious about the Ikeda and Miyoshi's rich history and unique traditions?
Awa-Odori Festival in Ikeda's streets 

Ikeda & North
Top Things to See & Do

  • Hashikura-ji Temple in Ikeda

    Hashikura-ji Temple

    A tranquil temple accessed by cable car

    Historical Sites

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  • Ikeda Tobacco Museum & Udatsu Streets

    Tobacco Museum & Udatsu Streets

    Stroll the historic streets of Ikeda

    Historical Sites

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    • Ikeda & North
    Local Points and Access Map

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    Hashikura-ji Temple Procession

    IyaTime's

    Insider Tips

    IyaTime's Insider Tips

    As number 66 in Shikoku's 88 Temple circiut, when visiting Unpen-ji Temple one will surely see many henro pilgrims donned in white with traditional hats. By this point they will have been walking for 6 or 7 weeks and will still have two more to go. And on the approach up to the temple, it'll be also hard to miss the hundreds of haunting stone 'rakan' bodhisattva statues there to greet you.
    A hidden thrill for high-wire enthusiasts is the Shikinoue Bridge which spans the Yoshino River at the point where it forms a lake from the Ikeda Dam. At nearly 200 meters long, it is by far the longest suspension foot bridge in Miyoshi as well as Shikoku. The view is spectacular and its located just off Rt 192, less than a 5 minute drive (or 20 minute walk) from JR Awa-Ikeda Station.
    If taking a local train to/from north Shikoku on the JR Dosan Line (via Kotahira or Takamatsu) the first/last stop in Miyoshi is Tsubojiri Station. Tucked deep in the mountains, its simple wood structure is cute enough, but many railway fans seek it out due to its unique switchback access, where the train needs to reverse itself to enter/exit this remote depot.
    There are two ways to access the mountain-top Hashikura-ji Temple. The easiest is to take the breathtaking cable car, with awesome views of the Yoshino River Valley. Altenately, one can also take the traditional route and walk up the ancient stone staired paths to this 1200 year old temple. 
    About 2 minutes by foot from JR Awa-Ikeda Station is Frespo, Ikeda's main shopping center. Housing a drug store, supermarket, hardware store, clothing store, and a 100 yen shop, you can find whatever you need here before setting off into Miyoshi's more remote interior. Its especially convenient if traveling by bus, as the Awa-Ikeda Bus Terminal is within Frespo's parking area.
  • Udatsu structure in Ikeda

    Birthday Sparks

    Photo By: John Doe

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    • Architecture and history buffs should try exploring the narrow backstreets of Ikeda. At the end of the covered shopping arcade which extends from JR Awa-Ikeda Station, cross the small main street there to enter the old neighborhood that once prospered due to the tobacco trade. Keep an eye out for the unique "udatsu" feature on the older homes, which is an ornate half-wall that extends out of the second floors between buildings. Be sure to seek out the Tobacco Museum, which is set in a stately merchant home with a private inner garden. Also in the vicinity are some temples, a sake brewery, several bars*, and the back entrance to the pretty Suwa Park.
    *Careful: If looking to go out for a few drinks in the backstreets of Ikeda, do so with caution. Many of the places are hostess 'snack' bars with mainly regular patrons. Some of the smaller spots, especially those with karaoke, charge a cover fee (that you won't know of until the bill arrives) and it is particularly advised to avoid any place which does not display prices. But don't fret your thirsty lips, as CoCo Cross Bar, Oyobare, and most places within the covered arcade including Heso Salon are all safe and (somewhat) reasonably priced. 
    Tightwad tip: grab a bargain 6-pack or a bottle from the "Lady" drugstore in the Frespo shopping center instead, and just drown your sorrows on a park bench.

    Ikeda & North
    Main Events

  • Ikeda Awa-Odori Festival

    Ikeda Awa-Odori Festival

    Mid August

    Streets of Ikeda

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  • Shikoku Sake Festival in Ikeda
    • JR Awa-Ikeda Station, in need of a 6-pack 
    Other Areas

    Ikeda & North
    Local Points and Access Map

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